And put a 408 stroker motor in it with a BTR Truck Norris stage 3 cam.
I’m replacing with a new AC Delco unit. Bearings, diodes, winding, and the Regulator all have too much time on it.
I looked into the regular Truck Norris cam, at low rpm’s the curves advertised didn’t seem to be a big pickup. You have me gun-shy about the cam bearings so I’m just going back with the OEM GM Non-DOD Cam. I’m dropping the Oil Pan so I can get a scope on the cam bearings. If the bearings are in real bad shape Plan B is replace all the lifters with DOD replacements, replace the DOD Solenoids, and install a Melling HV Oil Pump then close it back up.
Your DOD oil pump is better than a Melling … it is high pressure high volume to run the DOD lifters, and when you do away with the DOD lifters, it will be good!
The cam bearings are pretty hard to put in an LS motor … not near as bad as a hemi, but not easy either.
We have a truck in the shop right now, pulling the motor today to rebuild because the cam bearings are bad … low oil pressure when warmed up … if it has low oil pressure cold that means the pick up o-ring is bad.
I was just joking about the Truck Norris cam … they are just made to chatter, not work, but that is exactly what we are putting in this truck in the shop … it is a 1951 Chevrolet show truck and he just wants it to lope!
So go back with the a new DOD oil pump even with non-DOD lifters? My oil pressure is as good as when new. With 177K miles my practice has been to replace everything with new OEM or very reliable parts. I put a High Volume Melling in the 6.0 the 2001 2500HD has. It had good pressure at idle before replacing. That engine has had piston slap cold since it was new in 2001.
BTW, I’m only ordering enough parts at one time qualify for free freight. Also the engine hard parts purchases will be offered to our local machine shop first. If he’s within a reasonable amount I will buy most of the hard parts from him instead of online to help his business.
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If you have good oil pressure when warm, your cam bearings may still be OK … Engine tech from your local machine shop has a good single bolt cam to replace the DOD cam and lets you keep VVT, then replace all the lifters and use your old oil pump … will be good to go!
No VVT in this engine, it’s old enough to have missed that. Question, you are not concerned about spring fatigue on the pressure regulator spring in the OEM oil pump with 177K miles on it? I’m assuming the has a spring and check ball like the old rotor pumps. I’ve not been inside a LS Oil Pump.
It has a spring and I think it is a cup instead of a ball like the old pumps, but that is just a bypass … I wouldn’t worry about it, but it is your truck.
I thought about you today, I don’t do mechanic work, but my old 2000 GMC needed new injectors and the mechanic was busy pulling the engine on that 1951 Chev, so I did it … we are to old for that stuff!!!
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What I’m learning from Melling is the DOD oil pump is 33% more volume than a non-DOD oil pump and is a high pressure pump as well to operate the DOD system. The Melling 10296 (P/N may be incorrect) is a High Volume/High Pressure (70psi bypass) but only 18% greater volume. Melling is saying over 6 quart capacity oil volume is needed with that pump like the DOD oil pump.
I totally agree with the us doing mechanic work. Yesterday I had to help load a 33ft boat because one of the F250 Yamaha’s is got a internal noise. Fishing with Bon Temps today but will be on that F250 Thursday to determine what’s wrong.
My engine block for the black & green Blazer is coming back this week from the Machine shop too so the mating parts all must be cleaned and prepped. Those are on my welding table (aluminum table) with some work already done. No escaping mechanic work for me for a while.
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Air hammer with a socket adapter and an end wrench is what we’ve use on stuck exhaust manifold bolts many times on the farm. Less chance of twisting them off hammering and turning with the end wrench simultaneously.
Started Pulling the Heads
With three separate tasks going at the same time I’m jumping around today.
Using the cordless ratchet I first pulled all the Valve Cover bolts.
First labeling the card board I removed the Rocker Arms and Push Rods maintaining the exact order and contact points till I decide what I’m replacing.
The DOD Valley Pan is a aluminum plate installed between the 2 Heads, all the bolts were completely loose.
This is a Funky Looking piece of Truck Engine Part. The Displacement on Demand Solenoids run in this Cover.
As ACAMS posted earlier the Lifters are not under here. The Heads have to be removed to remove the failing DOD Lifters. Lunch Time.
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After a lite lunch (Can Soup, too much salt lately) I ate, sat down a bit then went back out to pull the Heads.
Why does every engine you pull the Heads on just pour Anti-freeze EVERYWHERE!!!
Of course coolant is in all the cylinders now too.
For 177K miles the heads don’t look bad. My 6.0 you could see daylight around several Exhaust Valves.
At this point I put the old Crankshaft Balancer bolt back in to rotate the Engine for a while, wiping Coolant up with each stroke. Once the Piston Rings stopped leaving Coolant Tracks I oiled up a cut piece of T-Shirt rag and wiped the Cylinder Walls numerous times as I rotated the Assembly again. Once satisfied plenty of oil was on the walls I poured oil on top of the pistons where the Coolant pooled and rotated the Engine Assembly some more. My local Machine Shop is closed all week this week so I can’t drop off the Heads till next week. Since the Valves are not leaking Lapping may be a option but I will not know till I pull them out of the Heads.
Using the old Crank/Balancer bolt to rotate the Engine…Priceless!!!
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I popped off the Timing Cover this morning before going to the machine shop. The 2 bolts on the underside was loose. One had backed out almost to the wiring harness that runs underneath. You have to remove the 10mm bolt on the Driver’s side but below the timing cover to allow the wiring harness to slide to the right and release from the retainers holding it in place.
This is a LMG LS 5.3 so it has a single bolt Camshaft. If you look close at the plastic Timing Chain Tensioner those are junk. A better one is the LS2 unit which is what I will be replacing it with.
Here is another picture from the side of the funky plastic Timing Chain Tensioner.
My Welding Table is not a Welding Table right now. Most of what you see will be replaced.
The Timing Cover Seal was leaking.
I dropped the Heads off at the Engine Shop to have them re-worked this morning. The shop owner said early next week they would be ready.
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Onward and downward! Down under the truck.
The Frame Crossmember had to be removed.
It went in between the two Frame sections shown.
The Rack Steering System had to be lowered down out of the way so I unbolted it on both sides. It takes a 24mm socket for the big bolts and a Big Impact!
Not a great picture but the Steering Rack is hanging down now.
now the Oil Pan bolts front to back both sides and two 16mm horizontal bolts threading in from the rear.
These are the 2 24mm Rack Mounting bolts. Big Bolts for sure.
So the Oil Pan Gasket is Riveted on in 2 places and of course the gasket stuck totally to the Block. I had to work a small Snap-on Pry tool all the way around so the Oil Pan would come free.
The next 2 pictures are the Rivets.
Why I had to drop the Oil Pan is to remove and plug this Oil Bypass Valve. It is not wanted or needed in a Non-DOD system.
I was running the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 oil in this engine and you can see on the Windage Tray it was removing the deposits inside the engine. I changed the Oil Filter a lot to prevent the Oil Filter from Bypassing. From the bottom you can see the Pistons are cleaning up. The Restore & Protect Oil is designed to remove deposits behind the low tension Piston Rings. The buildup pushes the Rings outward into the Cylinder Walls defeating the reason Low Tension Piston Rings was even invented.
Now I’ve removed the Oil Pump and Camshaft Bolt so the Cam Timing Gear and Timing Chain can now be removed.
That funky Timing Chain Tensioner can be seen here a bit easier. I will be installing a different design.
The picture the Tensioner is laying on the table with the Cam gear.
With the Camshaft out I can see what I really don’t want to look to close at.
The Cam Bearings. Yuck. I’m holding my nose and moving forward. As our fellow CDC member posted earlier the Cam Bearings are Junk.
All of this will see the tank and get cleaned up. The Oil Pump is being replaced with a new Oil Pump Melling has designed exactly for this job.
Now Clean up everything before any reassembly can take place. I ordered $1364 in hard parts. I’m not reusing much of anything. The Machine Shop said I can pickup the Heads Monday.
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That’s a lot of work. You never cease to amaze me. Good job.
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what he said!!
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With everything you have going on, trucks, cars boats outboards, gardening, wine making, I don’t see how you find time for fishing. You do manage to. Enjoying all you you do, and thanks for the ride along…
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