i has some issue on cure the jigs and it cause many conehead but i’m trying to find way how to aviod and i wonder how will u cure the 1/80 and 1/64 oz jighead ?
trying to cure all jigs through winter and get them ready for spring fishing..
any advice would be help..
thanks
Forgot to say…
From Toledo Bend Texas!
Are you using a fluid bed? If you are then you are heating the head too much which is putting too much paint on. I would and do cure a 1/64 or 1/80 the same way I do a 1/4 Oz. I time it and temp it the same. Only thing is you can’t heat them as long before dipping in the paint or leave it in very long. Also don’t know what you heating the heads with and I use an alcohol burner which burns clean (no soot) and I keep my flame about 1 1/2"-2" tall and I count how long to heat them and you have to do this on your count and what is comfortable to you counting wise. If you use a heat gun like some I can’t really help much as I don’t like them even though I have 2 of them. Never what that thing making all that noise for as long as I paint each time I do paint.
About 5 years ago when I started I got some of that pointed head or some drips, but soon got past that and learned and have not had any drips in over 4 years and don’t get any cone heads either. You may need to adjust the count a tiny bit for some colors and some seem to need more heat by a bit and some a little less heat for the same finish.
Skip
umm i use candle to heat a jigs but i havent find any aclchol burner anywhere and wonder where can i find one and i just finish all my tungsten pour in jigheads last night and now plan on dip the heads but i just hold it til trying to find a better heat like burner and otherthings " cheap " to buy and can put alchol in ..
They are not cheap nor high cost, but I have been looking for a better option for 5 years for the one I bought at Barlow’s Tackle. It’s like $15-$17 or something close and I thought that I had found a better one that was all metal, but when I got it the wick was smaller and that made for a smaller flame and since I didn’t want to learn again and not even have a big enough flame for 1/4 Oz. I stayed with it and still do.
I found some on ebay too and bought one that was like a octagon shape and was happy until I found the cap didn’t screw on and just pushed on. You could use one like this, but I have not tried mine to see if the alcohol I leave in it will evaporate too fast or not. I leave what ever is left in mine in it until next time.
Here is the link to the one at Barlow’s Tackle and like I use and have for 5 years on the same wick.
Alcohol Burner
Skip
i have see some on ebay, and think about buy the burner and wonder u use duentard fuel ? otherwise like i say i use candle called " ultra pure liquid candle " but i’m not sure if it’ll work just as heat the jigheads but been use since and fish with it and notice paint have fall off after many casting or hit somethings when catch a fish..
Don’t know about your candles, but most have soot that they put off and in an alcohol lamp it like the denatured you find at the hardware store and is pretty cheap and clean. Once you pain and cure it will not chip off like you are talking about. I would think your heat sourse is putting something on the lead that it doesn’t attach well to. Some use heat guns, but I don’t like them. Ask Scottv in a PM as I got him to get one not long ago and he loves it.
Here is a link to his profile and you can PM him from there. http://forum.crappie.com/crappie/members/scottv.html
If you powder paint right and cure them right the paint will not chip off.
Skip
I wished I had found this post before curing my first batch. I came here today for curing advice.
I watched a video on TJ’s Tackle about curing which called for 350 degrees for 20 minutes and out of about 150 jigs about 30 of them had paint drip and it was only chartreuse and silver that dripped.
How durable is powder coating without curing and how many people don’t cure after powder coating?
Thanks for your help with a newbie at tying.
You have to cure if you want it to last. If you don’t cure and drop one on a hard floor it will crack and chip right then. If your dripped it was because there is too much paint on them. Are you using a fluid bed? If you are you may be over heating the head before you are dipping them. At that temp they will not drip if you don’t have too much paint on them. If you don’t have a fluid bed then your going to need to keep it fluffed after every few you paint.
If not cured it’s not durable at all.
Skip
Yes Skip I do have the fluid bed and because this was my first curing I may have gotten more paint on some than the others. I thought it was funny that it only happened with the chartreuse and silver and I painted 5 different colors and over 150 at one time. I wondered if those colors had differnt properties. I used an alchohol burner as you suggested the same or as close to the same on all jigs.
I use a heat gun and I have to get it replaced already as the low setting burned out or the power button did. I get an occasional pointy tip but I use them or give those ones to the nephew. On a low setting I count to 4 on each side of a
1/16th oz head. I’ve found that after you dip if it comes out looking like powder wipe it off and re-do it, or use the heat gun on it you can usually tell if you have too much before curing.
I’ve been getting into adding glitter lately and that will change curing times I drop to 325 for 25 minutes and it works good.
Black uses to be the one I would get too much paint on when I first started, would even get some drips on the tin foil I started using to catch any of that and several others I could’t consistently get a good coating. Eventually I quite having any that made drips or getting too much pint on the heads. I do have a counting system for each weight head and I don’t go by seconds, just a count rhythm that is easy for me. Also I have learned to not just dip them, but to have some side to side movement when in the paint so I get a more equal paint coat on all sides.
I still love the alcohol burner and actually just got a new one from Barlow’s again. The first one I have used for 6 years or so and the first time I used it I got the lid on too tight and had to get a wrench to remove it and messed the lid up as well as the little metal thing that the whack goes through so I have been fighting that for all this time and the new one makes me so much happier as I don’t have any issues with it. I do have 2 heat guns actually and one I bought for another product, but tried them for a couple minutes of jig head painting and hated it. So that is my only experience with a heat gun. As far as heat temp and time even with glitter since the glitter I bought is from CSI and good to go with heat I still cure most at 392 to 395 and for 12 - 13 minutes. Since I have gone to the lower minutes I notice that I get a more equal color or shade on FL Red because I use to always get a few that got darker, but now all seem to come out right and bright.
I guess I have too much time or lazy. My toaster oven came with a rack I load about 30 heads at a time I support the rack on a couple of chunks of 2x4 load it up and slide the rack in. timer goes off and use gloves and shake rack off on OLD towel reload and repeat. By the time all the outside of the eyes are cured. I have put the pupils on the eye from the first batch and reload the rack. when I am using powder paint, I heat the head over an alcohol lamp, already pliers or hemostat on jig and dip into jar of paint . The jig will only hold a certain amount of paint so I don’t have any drips of paint. Again I am only doing 100 at a time, Too much time i guess.
Only thing is when you cure the paint and do the oven thing longer than their times, some of the paint will get darker and for sure Flame Red will not look right at all with too
kich oven time.
good work like it
Barlow,s Tackle or Jann’s Net Crafts is a good source for most of your supplies, and their prices are fair.
Barlowstackle.com or jannsnetcraft.com
Oops a little late on this commit.
