The 5.4 3Valve Ford engines were around 2004-2007 and were installed in the Ford Expedition & F150 Trucks with a 4 speed Automatic Transmission. If you have one of these you may want to know this information to Upgrade the Towing Capacity of your vehicle. If you have a factory Transmission oil cooler, factory trailer plug (flat), and a Rear End code J6 (3.73 Ratio Limited Slip) you vehicle is rated to tow around 6,800 pounds max for a 2 wheel drive, 4 wheel drive is about 300 pounds less. My Expedition has the 5.4 3V Triton Engine, the above factory towing options, and I want to increase the towing rating to 8,900 pounds for a 2 wheel drive. To do this a larger Radiator, Transmission Oil Cooler, and Brake Controller must be installed. This post is replacing the Radiator only. I will cover the Transmission Oil Cooler upgrade in the next installment.
I’m starting out here kinda in the middle of the job to show you the difference in the size of the core between the original Radiator and the new Radiator. The HD Towing Radiator is much thicker. Fits in the same location, everything else is the same. I bought this HD Towing Radiator from Rock Auto. I took all the pictures when putting everything back together.
The first thing to do is to remove the plastic Radiator cover which is held on with plastic push rivets. I use a Cat Claw Trim Removal tool for that. After the plastic cover is removed you need to remove the small crossover Fan Shroud Cover on the bottom of the Fan Shroud. It is removed from under the vehicle. Here is a picture of my Fan Shroud upside down so you can see the removable center section.
Once the Center Section is removed the rest of the work can be done from up top. I wanted to remove the Fan / Fan Clutch assembly together to give me extra room to work so before I did anything else I loosened the Fan Clutch where it threads onto the Water Pump.
I want to mention here if your Fan Clutch goes out you will first notice your A/C not cooling when sitting still but when you are driving the A/C Cooling will return. That is because the Fan Clutch on these engines is special HD units. Do Not replace with an aftermarket one you will have more problems with the A/C later. I installed a NAPA Fan Clutch in mine when I felt it was too loose and failing. Well until I went to a Ford Dealership and bought a Factory Motorcraft Fan Clutch did my A/C work sitting in traffic, engine idling.
Using my Fan Clutch Removal tool and a Air Chisel I first place the 36mm Wrench on the Fan Clutch Hex Head.
Then I lock the Air Chisel Driver onto the Hook on the end of the 36mm Wrench to loosen. Counter Clockwise to loosen, Clockwise to tighten. The Wrench is in position to tighten.
Once I loosen the threads on the Fan Clutch I remove the Coolant from the Cooling System. On the Passenger side of the Radiator down at the bottom is a small valve with a 3/8in Barb pointing towards the side of the vehicle. You slip a piece of 3/8in ID hose onto the barb, place the other end into a suitable container, remove the Coolant Reservoir Cap, then open the valve. The Coolant will now drain out almost everything.
About 2+ Gallons was removed. Now I unbolt the 2 bolts holding the Fan Shroud in place, unscrew the Fan Clutch and after laying the Fan Clutch to the back begin working the Fan Shroud out. You see the Lower Radiator hose is disconnected, these pictures were taken when I was putting the Shroud back on, no worries.
Once removed I just set the Shroud & Fan on the side till later.
Now remove both Radiator hoses. I use Hose Clamp Pliers for the task. Really makes handling the clamps a breeze as it locks the Clamps open. Remove the Coolant Tank hose to the Radiator too.
Now the Transmission Lines. You must buy the correct Transmission Line tool. This one came from Amazon in a set with a tool for 1/2 in FORD Transmission lines. Place a large pan (I use a mortar mixing pan) under the frame on the Driver’s side beneath the lines. Transmission oil will be lost.
You lock the tool around the line and just push in, the line is released so it can be pulled out.
I used a Bungee to hold the lines back out of the way when I set the new Radiator in place.
There are 2 13mm bolts that hold the Radiator in place. Reinstall them after setting the Radiator and at this time I put the Fan Shroud and Fan Assembly back on. I set the fan down inside the engine compartment first leaning it rearward while lowering the Fan Shroud over it, working the Shroud back in place. It was easier going in this way. I then connected the Transmission lines, Radiator Hoses, & Coolant Tank Hose.
After the assembly was complete and my research directed me to replace the Thermostat with a cooler temperature one. The OEM Thermostat was a 195 degree unit, I installed a 180 degree unit. My Expedition is driven for towing most of the time or it just sits. With my 2500HD Silverado getting crushed in the Tornado a month or so ago I made these upgrades to the Fishin’ Expedition to Tow my Camper in a Emergency if we are hit by a Hurricane. With Hurricane season on top of us those that prepare for the worst usually can handle one when hit.
There are 2 I think 8mm bolts that hold the Water Outlet on, be sure you have a new O-Ring gasket for the Water Outlet when changing the Thermostat.
This is a Super Stat, when it fails it fails OPEN so you can get where you are going. They cost more but worth every penny in Pease of Mind.
Fords of this era used ZERKS Coolant, I do not believe in a Universal Coolant unless it is a new Build, if not I use OEM Coolants only.
A 50/50 mix with Distilled Water on the refill and a few Burps, then you are good to go. Burp your vehicle, turn the Heater Control to full Hot, start the engine and let it warm up a couple of times allowing it to completely cool off before the next cycle. This Burps trapped air into the Coolant Reservoir. I may edit this if after reading later I think of a better way to explain something.
