I’ve become Slab :Doh: why is it when something needs a home we are suckers and drag them back with us.
My Brother from another Mother says to me I want you to have this boat. I will make you a deal you can’t refuse. I see what you did with the truck and I have bought a new 25ft Blackjack with a 300 Yamaha on the back. Pick it up and bring it home with you.
I did say it was a deal nobody could refuse…My My. More once I get into it. For right now I have too much on the front burner.
Wow!
:Rofl You’re gonna be running out of space in your shop soon.
Hard to beat them for safety being foam filled and all. Great looking ride!
Nice rig
Very nice. And no, don’t say it’s so, don’t become Slab. Slab only fixes stuff half way. :dono We like Roj, he goes 110%. :yikes
Hey your stuff is on the road, Stubby is a very impressive recovery from a questionable purchase to me.
Both T&T cylinders just poured oil out of the Caps. The wiper seals & dust seals had just disintegrated. I didn’t take many pictures of the removal and install of both cylinders as there are several good YouTube videos of that.
The cylinders attach by a pin on top retained by a snap ring and these 2 allen head bolts on the bottom. Before removing the allen head bolts pull the 2 cylinders out together as they rotate on the Boss in the first picture. There is a drift alignment pin that can be damaged if you try to pull out the cylinders after the bolts are removed. 3 O-Rings are in the lower union of the two parts.
I break the Caps first while the Cylinders are still installed. A trick I use is a Heat Gun to heat up the threaded area first. Most service centers use a Air Impact Chisel to break the caps loose destroying them but I have this Hot Air trick which frees almost every cap I’m breaking loose for the first time by expanding the Aluminum Housing ever so slightly. This is done without damaging the paint finish like a Torch would do. Anyway once in the vise I finish removing the caps and use a toggle for a handle to pull the Piston/Rod assembly out. Notice the Oil Pans on the floor, this is messy work.
Look at the Gook on the Pistons. Certainly contaminated with water. You have to wipe out the cylinder area too. I use compressed air afterwards here further cleaning the cylinder out before pushing the inner piston down.
This “Shoots” oil everywhere, have floor dry handy. I use Hardwood Dowels as a plunger handle so I can’t scratch the cylinder inner wall.
I’m sure y’all know this trick but if you don’t once the floor dry has picked up what it can I clean up the contaminated floor dry then add fresh down. Using a 2x4 block I scrub the floor dry into the concrete removing any remaining oils.
Using the piece of Saddle Leather to protect the machined end of the piston rod I break the allen head retaining the piston check valves loose before disassembling on a white piece of cloth. Using a white cloth or towel helps you to see all the parts that come out. The Piston is threaded onto the rod so it must be removed without damaging it. I rigged the rod back in the engine temporarily and used the 2 Carbide Bits & Alignment Bar to break the piston loose and re-torque it later.
You can see all the little parts well on the old T-Shirt. Look at the Gook on the underside of the Cap. Funky. Both shafts needed polishing so back in the vise the Eye goes and while supporting the threaded stem on the other side I polished the shaft well with Crocus Cloth. Using lots of clean T&T Fluid I installed the replacement Caps on then reassembled the cylinders.
Filling & Bleeding was done by running the Rams in and out till the fluid remained about 1 inch down under the fill cap. Do not fill a Verado any higher or pressure will blow the Fill Cap off.
Once I finished I align the cylinder eyes up at put everything back together.
You are one busy fella. Thanks for the tip
That’s a beautiful boat!!
A man can’t have enough boats!!
Unless the upkeep and repairs keep you from using them to often.
Bon Temps!!
This engine has 256 hours on it but the oil looks like it’s never been changed. I changed it I know one years ago. It holds 7 liters of oil. I picked up 3 oil changes of cheaper supplies, this is the first change and I will let the engine idle while overboard while replacing the trailer bunk boards.
As soon as I load the boat back on the trailer I will change the oil again. The third oil change will be after running the boat up and down the river several times. I also picked up a Quicksilver oil change for the engine and gearcase. I plan on switching to Quicksilver products once these “Flushing” oil changes are complete.
The tires finally arrived. I already received the replacement Disc Brake system. While fairing compound was curing in the 184 Champion I installed new Rotor, Caliper, & Disc Pads on the front Axle before replacing all 4 tires. The Mag Wheels are nice but I can buy a complete Radial 14in Tire and Hot Dipped Galvanized Wheel as cheap as buying just a tire so I went that route. I’m going to have to have a sale on Trailer Mags as this will be the third set here.
I can’t blame you at all for buying the cheap wheel/tire combo when it gets the job done and still looks good.
